OK KPOP: Destination: Phayao – a sunken temple, an eclectic temple, and a temple with dinosaurs

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Along with Phrae, Phayao offers up another small city in northern Thailand, just in a slightly different direction. The trio of temples aren’t the only things to see in town, but all three have some weird aspects that make them all worth visiting.

Our first stop is Wat Tilok Aram (also spelled Wat Tilokaram), and is known as the sunken temple. What you see and walk on is essentially a floating platform above the temple’s watery home. It’s in the middle of the lake, and a manually powered boat ferries people across every so often.

Built from 1476-1486 by Chao San Hua, the King of Phayao, the temple was drowned out in 1939 when the Phayao lake was created to improve irrigation. The lake became the largest freshwater fish habitat in the north, and is now one of the most important wetland areas in the country. While there was some talk about restoring the temple in 2007, the area is now too important as an animal habitat – perhaps the reason why no boats with motors are allowed on the lake.

Speaking of animal habitat, you’ll have an opportunity to make merit by purchasing one of the baby turtles and setting it free. (I’d rather not know what sort of merit the guy catching them has.)

How do you like your Buddhas?

From this relatively central area, make your way back to your bike or transportation and get out of town – it’s time to take in Wat Analayo:

Try not to snicker at the name – or the butt. Also spelled Wat Analayo Thipphayaram and Wat Anal Yothippyaram, the temple is a bit weird because of the religious iconography. Simply put, it’s all over the place.

The temple follows the ridge along the top of the hill – and you’ve gotta climb the stairs to appreciate it. If you’re clever, you might try going up the hill to the right a bit and see if that saves you some effort… It’s about 8-10 minutes worth of climbing – enjoy the incredibly long tail while you climb.

One of a few places where coins were offered on their edges.

There’s very little signage around explaining the various images (and the rationale behind the bunnies), but never fear – keep walking!

The biggest Buddha around – 25 meters tall, done in the classic Sukhothai style. Also around is a chedi in the Indian Bodh Gaya style and a Chinese pavilion that holds Kuan Yin Bodhisattva.

There’s plenty of construction going on, and the buildings and shrines just keep going on for what feels like forever. No building looks like the next, and the description of ‘haphazard’ most definitely applies.

And now, for something completely different… dinosaurs?

Yeah, I got nothing. Welcome to Wat Sri Khom Kham – the temple itself is rather typical, so head through to this outside fenced-in area for the weirdness.

This is also presented as a hell temple – a look at what’s to come for your transgressions in this life.

These are a bit tame compared to some other hell temples we’ve been to, but I still wouldn’t want to take a young kid to it… The woman sans stomach suffers her punishment from having an abortion The dinosaurs, maybe.

I’m not exactly sure what these folks did to earn their place in the kettle.

If you’ve rented a bike or are willing to hire a songthaew for the day, getting to all three places is quite possible without needing to hurry at any one place. If you’re stuck without wheels, skip the eclectic temple and hit up the other two with pedal bikes or on foot.

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Name: Wat Tilok Aram AKA Wat Tilokaram

Address: Chaykwan road, Tambon Wiang, Chang Wat Phayao 56000. The pier is at GPS: 19.162805,99.900283, while the ‘island’ itself is at GPS: 19.158506,99.899915.

Directions: unless you feel like swimming the 500 meters, head to the pier on Chaykwan road along the river. This is about 200 meters west of the health garden. Boats leave when there are five or more people ready to go, and you’ll need to put a life jacket before boarding. You may also (apparently) borrow a straw hat to protect your face and neck from the sun during the 10 minute boat ride. You’ll have about 20-30 minutes on the ‘island’ before the crowd moves back to the boat for the return trip.

Hours: No specific hours, but you’ll probably have a tough time getting a ride out there before dawn or after dusk.

Admission: free (there may be a fee for the boat ride, but we weren’t charged one)

Phone: 053-717-433 (Tourism Authority of Thailand Northern Office Region 2)

Website: http://www.visitphayao.com/en/destination/watthilokaram

Name: Wat Analayo AKA Wat Analayo Thipphayaram AKA Wat Anal Yothippyaram (วัดอนาลโยทิพยาราม)

Address: Doi Butsarakham, Ban San Pa Muang, Mu 6, San Pa Muang, Amphoe Mueang, Phayao, 56000 (GPS: 19.178764,99.814233)

Directions: A songthaew is your only public transportation option for the 16 kilometer ride.

From Wat Tilokaram, follow Chaykwan road west, keeping the lake on the left for about 150 meters. Turn right onto Soi Prasat and go 600 meters to the T. Take a right onto Donsanam road, and go another 600 meters until you reach route 1 (Phaholyothin road). Take a left and cruise the highway for about 5 1/2 kilometers. Be looking for route 1001 – turn left onto it, and head another 4 kilometers. You’ll reach a four-way intersection – turn left onto route 1193 and go about 3 kilometers. Be looking to bear right onto route 1316, then go another 2 kilometers. Look for the entrance by a three-way intersection.

Hours: not posted

Admission: free

Phone: 053-717-433 (Tourism Authority of Thailand Northern Office Region 2)

Website: http://www.visitphayao.com/en/destination/watanalayo

Name: Wat Sri Khom Kham (วัดศรีโคมคำ)

Address: Mueang Phayao District Phayao, 56000 (GPS: 19.176595,99.889754)

Directions: If you skipped Wat Analayo, head west along Chaykwan road, keeping the lake on the left. After about 1.4 kilometers the road will come to a T – head left for about a kilometer, and you’ll see the temple on your left.

From Wat Analayo, head back the way you came in on route 1316. It’ll come to a T, so take a left onto 1193. Go 3.5 kilometers, take a right onto rural road 1001, and go another 4 kilometers to route 1 (Phaholyothin road). Take a right onto route 1, and look for the first right after about a kilometer. From there, go about 3 kilometers and look for the temple on the right.

Hours: 8am-6pm

Admission: free

Phone: 053-717-433 (Tourism Authority of Thailand Northern Office Region 2)

Website: http://www.tourismthailand.org/See-and-Do/Sights-and-Attractions-Detail/Wat-Si-Khom-Kham–4322

Ratings out of 5 globes (How do I rate destinations?)

Ease to arrive: