This contribution to the ‘Life as a Nomad’ comes courtesy of Dani Blanchette over at GoingNomadic.com.
So, tell me about Medellin.
Medellin has been described as the Chiang Mai of South America. It is one of the largest cities in Colombia, has beautiful spring-like weather year-round, and was voted Most Innovative City of the Year by Citi and the Wall Street Journal in 2013. It has an amazing public transportation system (including metro, buses, metrocables and an outdoor escalator) that is also the cleanest I’ve ever seen. It is also full of nightlife, super-friendly people, and tons of expats. And they are (slowly, albeit growing) in the different styles of food you can find.
But why Medellin?
For the people, the weather, and the city! Medellin has a turbulent history but the dangerous, cartel-ridden reputation of the 1980′s is almost the polar opposite of what it is today. Although it is still advisable to have caution (like in every big city on Earth), it is a relatively safe place to visit (you really only have to be careful in certain hillside neighbourhoods, and careful for pickpockets downtown. Also don’t go downtown on a Sunday or late at night). Plus Medellin has some crazy futbol matches and they are always a blast to be near the stadium during them.
Why Medellin as opposed to another city in Colombia?
The people first and foremost! People in Medellin are some of the nicest of anywhere I’ve ever been. Plus the city constantly has free, public cultural events. Almost any day you can find something going on in the city to do for free. Check out the parks and the Universidad de Antioquia (The main university located at Universidad station) where many concerts are held in the park.
Also the weather! Medellin isn’t called the “City of Eternal Spring” for nothing. It goes from slightly warmer, sunnier spring in their ‘summer’ to slightly cooler, rainier spring in their ‘winter’. But when it does rain, it is rarely constant and over the whole city. Most of the time it’s similar to Florida, with a quick, but torrent, downpour that lasts an hour or less then moves on. It’s a good idea to always have an umbrella with you in the ‘winter’ time.
How do you get there?
I fly JetBlue from the USA to go to Medellin. It’s faster to get to Medellin from Fort Lauderdale, FL than it is for me to get from Fort Lauderdale back to my current home in Las Vegas. There are many flights to Medellin and Colombia each day on various airlines and it’s a cheap place to get to. You can also bus or fly from Bogota and Cartagena quite easily. And there are cheap flights daily from Quito, Ecuador on Avianca.
Are there many foreigners around?
YES! So many expats go to Medellin that recently there has been some complaining from expats that they can’t find jobs teaching English (because there are so many people wanting to do it). And the locals are just as curious and wanting to learn about our culture as we are of theirs. Medellin is a great place to really get to know people and make new friends.
Are there many foreign products or services around?
There are services for expats and visitors, but most things are still in Spanish (including the immigration and visa office). The website MedellinLiving.com is a great English-written resource for information about Medellin. There are a few Facebook groups specifically for English-speaking Medellin expats too. But you will need to know Spanish, or have a guide to get around the city well (and it is not hard to find a local who is willing to show you around. Hit up hostels like The Wandering Paisa, or check out the universities if you want to find someone who will help.) If you aren’t used to the city it can be very intimidating, but the metro is very easy to navigate and there are many places you can easily visit on your own. There are also many ongoing Spanish classes and Spanish-English language exchange groups all over the city, where you can meet people, learn Spanish, and get to know more of what Medellin offers.
What about the language barrier?
I personally don’t understand any Spanish in Medellin. My Spanish was ok in other countries, but other native Spanish speakers from other countries joke that “Medellin doesn’t speak Spanish, they speak Paisa!” Medellin Spanish is fast and full of slang and an accent that is different from everywhere else. And they are damn proud of it! But there are many local people (especially younger people) who you will meet at language exchanges and hostels, who will speak slow and clearly for you. If you need help, look for someone college age. Older people almost never slow down their Spanish.
Without any Spanish you are going to be lost. Ask at your hostel or hotel where you can take Spanish classes. Or ask around at universities and hostels if they know anyone who can play guide/translator for you. Speaking the local language will definitely help you enjoy the city more!
What’s there to see around town?
Oh my gosh there is so much! There are tons of parks, shopping, music, and events. My favourite thing is the Altavoz Festival in the fall (October/November). It’s a 3 day, free, music festival in the field next to the Universidad metro stop. Parque Lleras (in Poblado) is where all the clubs are (and a really good Thai restaurant). And Medellin is known for their Christmas lights display that line the river for miles, and their holiday celebrations that start at midnight on December 30th and don’t end until New Years.
Again, MedellinLiving.com is a great (if not the best) English language resource to the city. Dave (who created the website) made a guidebook to the city that is better than any major brand you will buy. It’s up-to-date, only a few bucks, and really shows off the local’s Medellin! I used these resources all the time!
Is it worth coming to Medellin as a tourist?
Hell yes! Medellin is one of the best cities I’ve visited. I loved it so much, I went from wanting to stay for 4 day, to being there 2 ½ weeks, to going back and living for 6 months…twice! It really does suck you in. But even if you only have a quick trip, Medellin is a great place to visit. It’s cheap, it’s clean, it’s friendly, and there is so much to do whether you are alone, in a group, or going as a family. Actually Medellin is extremely family oriented!
What’s the best way to get started as a slow nomad there?
Start by taking Spanish classes and going to hostel events. Many hostels offer language exchange night, parties, and other events, where locals, guests, and non-guest visitors are allowed to attend. Even if you are a hotel or B&B type of person, you are welcome to the hostel events. This is a great place to get more information. You can also just head down to one of the universities in the city and ask about Spanish classes or expat programs. This is the best way to get started as a slow nomad in Medellin. Trying to do it on your own, especially if you have limited Spanish, will quickly become overwhelming. (Imaging visiting New York City without any English…it’s like that).
Think you’ll miss it after you leave?
I miss it even when I know I’m about to leave! I love Medellin! I am not there now and miss it so much. Once Medellin gets in you it is hard to let go. During the times I lived there, I saw many people ‘leave for good’ just to return a few months later. Medellin is addictive.
Last, but most important question: Where’s the best place to get a beer?
THE WANDERING PAISA HOSTEL! Ok, I may be partial because I lived at the hostel and worked as a bartender for months (and still work event nights bartending whenever I go back to visit). But I love this hostel. It is run by an American, the staff is Colombian but bilingual, they offer private Spanish lessons, have multiple bi-lingual events (including Karaoke and Language Exchange night), and they are located in central Medellin, a few blocks from Estadio station and the futbol stadium. And their beer is cheap and cold and almost any night you go you will be drinking with locals. (It’s about 50/50 locals to visitors at this bar).
But if you want food with your beer, go to Staccato. It’s off of the Santa Lucia station (2 stations west of Estadio, at CR 86B #47a 21 in the Edificio Habitat. Basically get off the station, go out the left door, walk across the street and a few feet to your left there is a side street. Follow the sidewalk around and down the side street. Halfway down is Staccato, just before the bank).
Staccato has the best ribs and chorizo in the city. They actually have the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere, which is saying a ton, because I’m from the states and we know our BBQ ribs!
About the Author/Photographer
Dani Blanchette is the creator of the travel blog GoingNomadic.com and a travel and music photographer. She loves slow travel and writing about places you won’t find in guidebooks. You can see her photography at LaGringaPhotos.com (“La Gringa” became her nickname in South America, because no one could say or spell Dani Blanchette).
Have you lived as a nomad somewhere for at least six months? Consider this your opportunity to share your story. Make contact – oneweirdglobe AT gmail DOT com – with a note on where you’ve lived and if you blog.
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This post first appeared at Life as a Nomad: Medellin, Colombia.
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